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Travel Back to the 20s with The Valentine’s “Ain’t Misbehavin’” Exhibit

Brooke Nicholson | July 16, 2020

Topics: 1920s fashion, aint misbehavin, art, art exhibit, Bill Bojangles Robinson, bill robinson, black lives matter, fashion, fashion historian, fashion history, History, Kristen Stewart, richmond fashion, richmond history museum, The Valentine, The Valentine Museum

As The Valentine prepares to reopen, we take a look inside their latest exhibit — which heads back to the 1920s to feature Richmond’s culture of the era, and local stars like Bill “Bojangles” Robinson. 

As functions and businesses begin to open again, one of Richmond’s most iconic museums, known for their collection and preservation of the city’s culture, is re-opening. While visitors will have to make reservations to tour The Valentine’s array of exhibits, museum-goers will be able to visit a new exhibit available to the public on July 21st. 

The new addition to The Valentine is named “Ain’t Misbehavin’.” It contains antique outfits and collectables from the Roaring 20s, telling the story of Richmond’s rich culture, the history of legendary dancer and Richmond native Bill “Bojangles” Robinson, and the evolution of fashion through an exclusive collection of women’s dresses, children’s clothes, and menswear. Kristen Stewart, Fashion Historian and Curator of Custom Textiles at The Valentine, describes what you’ll find when you visit. 

“The collection has a really complicated history,” Stewart said. “It was collected at a time when the museum was not the Richmond City history museum, but an encyclopedic museum. Concurrently along with the exhibition, [we] are executing a refinement project.”

During the exhibit’s preparation, Stewart has worked to determine what objects in the customer textiles collection have rich histories related to Richmond. The Valentine plans to care for, and highlight, these objects from the 1920s for perpetuity. 

PHOTO: Courtesy of The Valentine Museum

“There are about 40 dressed mannequins, and those are mostly women’s clothing,” Stewart said. “The vast majority is women’s clothing, with some children’s clothing and a handful of men’s sportswear. You’ll see examples of what women wore as ‘day wear,’ or casual wear. Active sportswear include bathing suits and knickers, which are really fun.” 

The exhibit has an emphasis on what working women in the 20s were wearing. It includes a number of examples of swimwear and sportswear, then moves into a collection of professional women’s clothing. 

“There was this huge influx of women, both graduating and completing higher tiers of degrees,” Stewart said. That influx of women into the workforce a century ago led to a whole new direction in women’s fashions.

“Then, of course, the show has to finish with what everyone is coming to see: 1920s evening wear, which is renowned and bright for its wonderful sparkle,” Stewart said.

The country was booming, and 1920s were a time when people celebrated, partied, and found fun wherever they could. Stewart emphasized the change in atmosphere that occurred due to impactful changes in society, along with the era’s new trends in fashion. 

“The 1920s were a moment when recreational sports were a leisure activity on the rise,” Stewart said. “Consequently, you see a fashion story evolve alongside a social story.”

PHOTO: Courtesy of The Valentine Museum

The exhibit’s title comes from a song of the same name, written in the late 20s and made popular by Bill “Bojangles” Robinson. Born in Richmond, Robinson was one of the most groundbreaking actors and dancers of his time. He pursued a career in acting, and broke social norms as one of the first African-American artists to perform alone on stage. At the time, black men never performed by themselves; only white men were allowed to be the “star” of the show. 

“There was this pleasure of a liberated lifestyle, and some fear and anxiety of the consequential political oppression in response to this liberation,” said Stewart. “The lyrics to ‘Ain’t Misbehavin’,’ to me, beautifully reflect this tension. It’s a really jazzy score that makes you want to misbehave, but the words are speaking the opposite, like ‘saving my love for you,’ and staying true.”

While most of the collection’s garments come from generous donations and The Valentine’s own curation, Stewart notes that a few items will be missing from the museum — unless the community has outfits of their own to offer. 

“We do not have any outfits related to Bill Robinson,” Stewart said. “[It’s] an honest reflection of the fact that we don’t have more material relating to his life. We, frankly, don’t have any actual women’s garments worn by black women in the 20s from Richmond. As a fashion historian, that’s just pure heartbreak, isn’t it?” 

PHOTO: Courtesy of The Valentine Museum

As a historical museum, The Valentine recognizes that the lack of preserved historical garments comes from racial segregation during the era. 

“Even though The Valentine was desegregated, in terms of audience, from the beginning, there was this hesitance,” Stewart said. “There wasn’t the same line of communication that you would have if you weren’t facing, and operating in, a segregated society. In the 30s and 40s, we missed the opportunity to collect these clothes.”

Stewart explained that The Valentine has acknowledged these missing items in the exhibition, and hopes that the Richmond community can step in to donate clothing they may have from the 20s. 

“We will have silhouetted figures that acknowledge what’s missing,” Stewart said. “[They] serve as an invitation to black families living in Richmond, who maybe had a great-grandmother from the 20s, who have captured and preserved that time in history through clothing.” 

The 1920s brought historical moments of monumental change to the country, and allowed Americans new freedoms they had not had in the past. With many of the same issues alive in Richmond in today’s world, Stewart notes the parallels between the show and Black Lives Matter protests. 

“It is like a mirror. It feels like the show provides us an opportunity to acknowledge that there have been moments of weakness,” Stewart said. “Young people, in some ways, see more clearly than those who are older than them. [They] certainly are looking at the future with a more clear-eyed vision than their parents are. The youth element that we see on the streets today may see itself reflected in the mirror in this show.” 

Photo and Caption Courtesy of The Valentine Museum

Overall, Stewart hopes that the new exhibit will not only commemorate that time in history, but share information to teach about societal differences and educate through the use of clothing.

“There is some inspiring content,” Stewart said. “We’re inspired by what women were achieving, inspired by what — in spite of segregation — black Richmonders were giving. [We’re] inspired by how Richmond was embracing this rapid pace of change in the beginning of the 20th century… and sobered by some of the dark lessons of that time.”

As The Valentine gears up to open its doors again after the pandemic’s initial closures, Stewart is pleased to see “Ain’t Misbehavin’” be the exhibit to kick it off.

“The reason I’m so glad this is the show we’re opening with is that it recognizes all the tension, pain, and anguish of that period,” Stewart said. “It is also extraordinarily playful, and incredibly fun, because it’s driven by usefulness. It’s recognizing a decade that we refer to as the Roaring 20s. That’s not because people were sitting around twiddling their thumbs — they were having a good time.” 

To learn more about the exhibit, check out “Ain’t Misbehavin’” at The Valentine’s website. Admission to the Valentine is free this summer, but tickets for self-guided tours must be reserved in advance, due to social distancing protocols.

Top Photo courtesy The Valentine

Couch Fashions Hit The Runway At Mamersass

Aviance Hawkes | March 9, 2020

Topics: Derek Garrett, DJ Boygirl, eco-streetwear, events richmond va, fashion show, Jamey Brittingham, Mamersass, richmond fashion, The Couch Collection, upcycling

With their Couch Collection, eco-streetwear brand Mamersass showed that upcycled “grandma couches” can transform into glamorous fashion.

Sometimes when someone is wearing a gaudy patterned outfit, people joke that they are “wearing a couch.” It’s an easy joke to make, but not many people ever wonder: could you really pull off wearing clothes made from old couches? Eco-streetwear fashion brand Mamersass Reinvented Fashions decided to find out at their first Richmond fashion show, The Couch Collection, which launched on Saturday, February 29.

The launch party was held at the Mamersass store on Broad Street in Richmond’s Arts District. It was free and open to the public, and once doors opened, the space filled quickly with supporters and curious individuals who came out to see the new collection. The show featured contributions from local stylists, designers, photographers, and videographers, as well as fashion design students from VCU. Music was provided by DJ Boygirl, who set the tone from start to finish.

The energy of the show was amazing and full of artistry, diversity, and inclusiveness. The crowd encouraged and cheered on designs and models as they came down the runway. Hot tea was served, and visitors were welcome to shop after the show as well.

Mamersass, pronounced “May-Mer-Sass,” is run by sustainable designers Jamey Brittingham, aka Mamer, and Derek Garrett. Their mission as an eco-streetwear brand is to rescue and reinvent unwanted textiles and vintage clothing, combating textile waste by upcycling used fabric into clothing and accessories. Their love for fashion is second only to their love for the earth and their desire to give back and use fashion for good.

Brittingham wanted to be a fashion designer ever since she was a kid. “My mom taught me the basics of sewing in middle school, then put me in sewing class, where I learned even more,” she said. “I used to paint shoes and make clothes for myself throughout high school.” Mamer said. Along with Garrett, she started Mamersass in 2012, originally on the island of Chincoteague. Though they are new to the Richmond area, this will be their eighth year in business. 

According to Brittingham, the inspiration for the Couch Collection derived from the textures and patterns of upholstery fabric, specifically what she calls “floral grandma couches.”

“We used materials that have been rescued from living rooms of the past and recreated into one-of-a-kind garments. No one piece in this collection was constructed from new materials,” she said. “Grandma’s living room to me is warm, inviting, and home-y. This line tells the story. Even the smell of the shop is to remind you of Grandma’s house.” 

To stay up to date with Mamersass, you can follow their Instagram @mamersass, or visit their shop, which is located at 420 W Broad St.

Fashion Flourishes at University of Richmond & The Valentine’s ‘Pretty Powerful’ Exhibit

Megan Wilson | August 10, 2018

Topics: fashion, Muxe, richmond fashion, RVA fashion, The Valentine, University of Richmond, Zach Ryan

These blurbs originally appeared in the Mass Appeal section of RVA #33 Summer 2018. You can check out the issue here, or pick it up around Richmond now. 

University of Richmond Grad Launches Gender Fluid Brand

University of Richmond isn’t exactly known for its fashion program, at least not in comparison to VCU, but Kadeem Fyffe made it work. Fyffe started as a journalism major, seeking a well-rounded liberal arts education, but soon shifted to Studio Arts to study fashion, which led to a semester abroad in Milan where he’d work on the opening of Milan Fashion Week.

Fyffe would go on to study at Parsons School of Design and design for Michael Kors, but his biggest achievement was the launch of his own label, Muxe. “I wanted to start a brand that embodies and has a political component to it,” he said. “It’s important for people who are creative to have a voice or platform to speak out and express your beliefs.”

Fyffe’s gender-fluid label features t-shirts of different lengths, with various statements and designs. Some of them are almost politically wonkish, such as his #SAYTHE7 tee, which features a row of the seven words the Trump Administration asked the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention not to use any more.

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Top Photo Credit: Muxe New York

Fyffe will release an extended collection this summer featuring crop tops and tanks. By Spring 2019, Muxe will roll out a more complete collection of men’s skirts and unisex pants, along with more statement tees.

“I wanted to start off slow,” Fyffe said. “I plan to keep my finger on the pulse and release items that are expressive at just the right time.”

See the full collection at muxenewyork.com.

Pretty Powerful Exhibit Elevates Current and 19th Century Richmond Fashion

From the inaugural ball gown worn by First Lady of Virginia Pamela Northam in 2017 to silk gowns designed in 1875, The Valentine’s current fashion exhibit features an inclusive and thoughtful collection of clothing from female designers, tastemakers, and boutiques.

Current designers and boutique owners including Rupa Singh of Love This, Bella Weinstein of Handyma’am, and Deborah Boschen of Verdalina received their own spot in the story woven by The Valentine’s curators. One display case features 10 designs from Maxwell Reid, who creates wearable art in her home in the Fan District today.

“A well-crafted wardrobe acts as a highly visible performance of identity,” reads a placard in the exhibit, introducing a series of outfits and pieces worn around the region during the past century.

Pieces like a 1948 gingham playsuit and 1960s Vera Maxwell ensembles created for former Thalhimers Vice President Elizabeth Bauder are displayed with detailed stories and quotes about how the garments were made, who wore them where, and how they fit into Richmond’s cultural history. Bauder’s story, for example, chronicles her rise up the Thalhimers corporate ladder from copywriter to Fashion Coordinator, to Vice President and Director of Sale Promotions.

Visit the exhibit between now and January 27, 2019. Learn more at thevalentine.org.

Rising University of Richmond Junior Zach Ryan Grows Fashion Start-Up

Zach Ryan has been founding fashion startups since he was 15. It all started when the Connecticut native spent a summer in Nantucket.

“I saw all these startups by college kids,” he said. “I saw that it wasn’t just about clothing. It was about a lifestyle, building your own world. I did more research and got to know the founders of some of these brands. They inspired me to start my own clothing brand at a young age.”

Image may contain: 1 person, sitting, child and outdoor
Photo By: Zach Ryan

Ryan just finished his sophomore year at the University of Richmond. At 21, he’s started four companies, one of which he sold in high school for five figures. His namesake clothing brand, Zach Ryan, is one of his most recent ventures. The collection features polos, henleys, and cardigans with a coastal New England aesthetic.

“Ultimately, this combines everything I love into one melting pot: design, sketching, photography, expressing yourself, sharing it with the world,” he said.  

Image may contain: 1 person, indoor
Photo By: Zach Ryan

Thanks to connections from his internships, Ryan works with manufacturers and factories used by Tommy Hilfiger, Armana, and H&M. The high-quality garments are sold online, with more than 90 percent of his business coming from Instagram, Ryan said. The University of Richmond Bookstore also carries Zach Ryan pieces. Ryan is working to develop custom collections for more bookstores on college and boarding school campuses.

As for what’s next, Ryan says he will release a new shirt design this summer. He’s also working on developing a new app.

See the full collection at zachryan.com.

 

A Richmond Classic Pops Up in Norfolk

Charles Rasputin | June 22, 2018

Topics: fashion, kids fashion, Norfolk, richmond fashion

Nora and Anthony Bryant are used to being on the move. Nora, an adjunct University of Richmond professor and Anthony, an acclaimed DJ with a penchant for English Premier League Football are adventurous and thoughtful entrepreneurs. And with two little ones, they have translated their love for kids and all things style into one of the Commonwealth’s most well-curated kids’ shops: Little Nomad.

Little Nomad has a storied history, least of all the car that crashed through their Broad Street storefront in May of this year. While no one was hurt, this was a chance to pause and figure out how to proceed with the store that has become a mainstay of kids fashion accouterments.

Always on the move, the Bryants regrouped and have now launched a series of pop-ups in Richmond and abroad.  This weekend they are launching their brand in another new location, this time inside the historic Selden Market in Downtown Norfolk for the Fourth Friday Bazaar.   

Selden Market has been making huge waves in the Hampton Roads community, launching retail superstars into the atmosphere and helping fashion startups fine-tune their business and marketing plans. With the help of some of the most talented folks in the region advising and mentoring on their behalf, Selden Market has resident tenants and hosts popups weekly, with tons of special events in the mix.  Little Nomad is a Richmond staple that Selden Market director, Careyann Weinberg, knew Hampton Roads needed to check out.

“I’m excited to share a Richmond favorite with Norfolk, right here in Downtown.” said Weinberg. “Little Nomad has a cool selection of products, even if you don’t have kids, you’ll probably start thinking about what you can buy for your friends and family.”

When asked what Norfolk could expect from a Little Nomad pop-up Anthony Bryant told RVA Mag, “People can expect a fun mix of goods that one doesn’t often find in a kid’s shop.” According to Anthony, they will be bringing their own independent clothing brands, books, toys, educational materials, “Oh, and Vans.”

To round out the weekend’s events, producer and DJ, Gabe Niles, will perform at Selden Market’s Fourth Friday Bazaar from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Little Nomad’s pop-up will run from Friday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

RVA #31: Streetwear Label Alqemy Revamp, Handyma’am Launches Women’s Workwear Line, & Nine Roses Jewelers

Megan Wilson | January 11, 2018

Topics: Alqemy Apparel, Handyma'am, Nine Roses, richmond fashion

Alqemy Debuts on BET’s Tales in Sync with Relaunch

It was a Tuesday night after 9 PM when Brendon James first heard that his streetwear label had made it on TV. The news came after a hard year of marketing for a relaunch of the label, but it wasn’t a relief.

“I was annoyed, excited, confused,” he said, talking about his reaction to the vague message from his sister. “She was at work, and she texts me just, ‘I think I saw one of your shirts on TV!’” He wanted to know more, but the two wouldn’t be able to talk until the next afternoon, at which time they had a conversation that still didn’t answer his questions.

“She didn’t remember the name of the show, just that it was on BET, and she kept saying it was a white shirt with my logo. I didn’t make a white shirt,” he said. A little web research provided some encouragement. The timeslot on BET was for Tales, an original series by Irv Gotti that tells new stories based on classic hip-hop tracks.

Gotti was one of the many influencers James had tried to reach during his marketing campaign, but he didn’t know if he’d gotten through. He finally got to enjoy the news when he saw a web highlight of the episode, which featured Moonlight star Jharrel Jerome wearing an Alqemy shirt. “The episode was in black and white. The shirt isn’t white, but it just looked like it was,” he said. “It was like Christmas morning.”

Alqemy’s September relaunch was James’s second attempt with the company, one which came after a lot of reflection on an earlier, unsuccessful attempt in 2015. “That didn’t go so well because I put the cart in front of the horse,” he said. “I had done no real marketing, and I had no quality control in terms of my manufacturers.”

His earlier experience made him want to start smaller and closer to home. Haberdash, located in the Fan, prints his shirts and tags. “I love being able to pop in and talk with them whenever I need to,” he said. “At some point, we may outgrow them, so it’s a big learning experience working with Haberdash. When we work on larger production, I’ll know a lot about what things to do and what not to do.”

The name Alqemy comes from James’s fascination with the science of bringing things together. As a metaphor, it spoke to the concept behind his clothing. “Now more than ever, we need to band together as one people,” he said. “If I can use whatever platform to promote that, I’ll do that as much as possible.”

Feminist Label Handyma’am Launches New Work Clothes for Women in Trades

Amid the onslaught of last-minute election ads, Handyma’am founder Bella Weinstein was carefully watching two dates: the 7th and the 21st. The first marked the end of a historic campaign for Virginia women running for political office, the second, the end of a successful fundraising period for her feminist clothing line.

Weinstein raised $50,000 through crowdfunding, netting $10,000 over her goal, to fund the production of a new and improved version of the coverall she designed as part of her burgeoning clothing line. Handyma’am’s focus is on garments for women who work, inspired by the long history of women in trade work and the need for functional, well-fitting clothes for tough jobs.

“They’re meant to empower,” she said of her latest garments. “Whether you are a painter or welder as a living, or if you work in an office but you are interested in doing something on the side, I want you to feel like a superwoman when you put on the coverall. I know I do.”

Weinstein personally wears, washes, and dries each garment she creates for Handyma’am before they hit the market. She also sends items like coveralls and the “Drapron” out to farmers and other women who get dirty professionally, or as a hobby.

“I was driven by a combination of loving jumpsuits, working with my hands, and being unable to find quality, durable clothing for women,” she said. “I didn’t have experience in fashion, but I had a community of women I knew and wanted to support, and I had drive.”

Weinstein works with technical designer Shaeffer Hatisma to bring her ideas to life. Features include cinching at the waist, pockets, and slimming silhouettes, all in thick, durable fabrics. The durability made it a challenge to find reliable production in the United States, but this is a problem Weinstein has recently solved.

Coveralls, good butts, and rad ladies. ✔️✔️✔️ Thanks for such an awesome year of growth and support. Can't wait to do it all over again! . . . #bestnine2017 #newyears #goodyear #handymaam #handymaamgoods #maamssupportingmaams #womensworkwear #workwear #workwearstyle #womeninbusniess #womenintrade #madeinusa #madeinamerica #americanmade

“This year, we’re making it real,” she said, referring to a US-only production strategy that includes women-owned textile shops in Portland, Maine and New York City. She often travels north to check-in on the New York production, but loves being based in Richmond, where she lives with her husband, James Lum, co-owner of JM Stock Provisions.

Weinstein plans to grow and expand her business, citing a need to support other trades and body types. She also wants to do more philanthropy. She’s not looking to open a storefront, though; her focus is on national growth, aided by pop-up shops and online sales, without the distraction of running a physical space.

Nine Roses Is Making Fine Jewelry Modern

The creative couple behind Nine Roses Jewelers is trying to make fine jewelry a little more approachable. In a well-lit space with hardwood floors and sleek glass cases, Eliza Spell and Nick DeRosa talk jewelry, sketch customer ideas, and sometimes bring their dogs to work.

“Some people are so freaked out about going into a stuffy jewelry store,” said Spell, the Creative Director of Nine Roses, describing the vision behind the boutique decor.

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The collection is modern–imagine delicately crafted skull-shaped gold rings and dainty precious gems set in curvy, nature-inspired designs–but the materials are traditional and the results high end. Prices start around $100 for earrings and run as high as $3,000 for engagement rings and custom pieces.

Engagements are a big part of the business. To make a potentially-stressful time more accessible, the wife and husband teamwork with couples on custom pieces, running the gamut from original work to placing heirloom gems into modern, trendy settings. They also offer an online blog for proposal-ready men and women covering style basics and details on diamonds.

They carry a number of designers in-store and online; the selection is thoughtfully curated. “We won’t do business with people who do things the wrong way,” Spell said. “We prefer to work with small businesses.”

This will be their third year in business, a milestone Spell credits to connecting with customers and being transparent. “There’s a different level of trust that goes into the relationship you have with a jeweler,” she said.

 

RVA #31: Bringing Vintage to the Masses From RVA

Megan Wilson | January 5, 2018

Topics: Addison Handmade & Vintage, Nighthawks Vintage, Our Wander Life, richmond fashion, vintage clothes, vintage fashion

From monuments to restaurants, Richmonders crave the new, yet remain mesmerized by the old. The dichotomy between old and new comes into focus in the fashion community here, including how we shop and what we buy.

For starters, like much of America, we’re heading to the mall much less often. For the first time in history, American shoppers will spend more online than in-store during the 2017 holiday season, according to research firm Deloitte.  Much of the spending will be at fast fashion stores like Forever 21 and Shopbop, driven by social media, a top factor for the clothing decisions of more than 35 percent of millennial women, according to research by Mintel.

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Photo Credit: Our Wander Life

As trends circulate in and out of style faster than ever, old trends become new. Shoppers aren’t just looking for the newest boots, they’re looking to recreate trends from decades and even centuries ago. Only now, instead of heading to the thrift store to hunt for vintage items, shoppers are searching for them online. Richmond-based businesses Our Wander Life, Addison Handmade & Vintage, and Nighthawks Vintage are just a few bringing vintage to online shoppers. Their owners use a variety of new and changing channels to reach customers online and have learned lessons along the way.

Our Wander Life owner Victoria McGovern has always been a collector, especially of clothing, trinkets, and household items from the Victorian Era. The floors of her home in Church Hill are lined with estate sale rugs with ripped edges and elaborate patterns. She serves lavender and rose water in vintage crystal from an aged silver tray to guests. Her outfits, which include vintage dresses with high necklines and doily collars, are sometimes mistaken for costumes.

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Photo Credit: Our Wander Life

She sells everything from vintage curio music boxes to velvet blazers and pleated skirts, but also works as a photographer, and carries other jobs with Richmond Region Tourism and Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden. She moved to Richmond after a visit to the well-preserved Victorian Era mansion at Maymont, bringing her personal collection along from South Florida. As she settled in, her collection began to grow, and she started her online business to manage it. While she takes in-house appointments, she’s able to bring her vintage finds to more people via her website and social media. As she’s made this transition to selling her collection online, she’s grown to love the relationships she develops with customers.

Photo Credit: Our Wander Life

“They’re kindred spirits,” she said. “They’re drawn to these items for different reasons, and they always want to know more about the clothes and stories behind them.” She works hard to provide customer service that engenders trust. This is important, she says, because vintage is often a very personal purchase. Items are one-of-a-kind, require special care, and come with their own histories.

Addison Handmade & Vintage co-owner Lauren O’Connor waited four years to take her storefront business to the web, looking to connect with new customers all over the country.

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Photo Credit: Addison Handmade & Vintage

The business may be online, but O’Connor says she still works directly with customers. “They still want that personal attention and touch,” she said, noting that customers frequently call her personal cell phone number, which is listed on the website. Other questions come in over social media channels, focusing on fit, feel, and true color.

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Photo Credit: Addison Handmade & Vintage

The website has broadened their national customer base, but O’Connor notes that it has also helped them reach local customers, who might not have schedules that allow free time to browse. However, the transition, completed this past summer, had some challenges. “With vintage, all items are one-of-a-kind,” she said. “While we are taking photos of an item and uploading them with descriptions to the web, that item could have sold in the shop and become unavailable.”

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Photo Credit: Addison Handmade & Vintage

She and her team would have to take the item down from the website and relinquish the effort they made. For a small business, that takes up valuable time and money. O’Connor was also concerned about maintaining her brick-and-mortar shop’s aesthetic online.

“A lot of people really like the physical space of the store, which is a priority to us,” O’Connor said. “It’s how we started. I love curating the store and I think a lot of the draw is in the store.”

She recreates the same nostalgic 60s and 70s aesthetic of the shop–warm tones, rich fabrics, and high-waisted everything–when creating images for the website and social media. “We want the website to let people know that we have your back if you can’t make it in,” she said.

Learning to maintain websites and online shops is another challenging and demanding part of the business. Jessica Lemmer of Nighthawks Vintage has been selling vintage clothing online since 2010. She’s always been a thrifter, drawn to Art Nouveau’s vibrant patterns and rich fabrics as well as the nylon, denim, and vinyl textures from the 60s and 70s. She not only sells vintage items, but repurposes old fabrics and clothing to more modern silhouettes, including crop tops.

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Photo Credit: Nighthawks Vintage

“I fall in love with each piece when I immediately visualize its potential, whether I keep it intact, alter it, or repurpose it completely,” she said. “And I want that experience to translate to the new owner.”

For Lemmer, Etsy was an effective way to meet and connect with new customers. For years, the platform only allowed vintage and handmade items. It provided its own marketing mechanisms and brought the customers to her. Now, she says, it’s become oversaturated.

“It’s basically like eBay now, which is also how a lot of online vintage sellers made it big,” she said. “It’s a dying platform. It’s hard to get found, and maintain a relationship with customers.”

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Photo Credit: Nighthawks Vintage

While she still has an Etsy shop, Lemmer has turned to Instagram to share her curated collection. Here, she has more control over her visuals and how she interacts with future customers. Like O’Connor, she works hard to maintain a specific aesthetic.

“I do everything because I want it all to be a very certain way,” she said. “It takes so much time to create item descriptions, take photos of the models, choose and edit the photos to create the feel I want.”

While the challenges of online retail will continue to change and adjust, Lemmer’s eyes still light up when she talks about vintage clothing and textiles. “Luxurious materials are my favorite things to find,” she said, citing old curtains with Art Nouveau patterns as an example. “They’re coming back in a really timeless way.”

While vintage items may be timeless, the market still has trends and rhythms with the rest of fashion. The minimalist movement featuring stripped down neutral colors and oversized shirts and dresses is going to slowly fade away, Lemmer said. Details like embroidery, buttons, patterns and more will draw customers in the coming year. “High waisted anything isn’t going anywhere anytime soon, either,” she added. “People try to tell me crop tops are going out of style, too, and I say, ‘No way.’”

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Photo Credit: Nighthawks Vintage

O’Connor also agreed that high-waisted items, especially denim, are going to continue to be her best sellers. She carries a large selection in the store and online. Vintage coats are also popular and a good investment, she said. “Delicate things are making their way back into mainstream,” she said. “Romantic pieces, soft textures and dreamy kind of stuff are going to be popular this year.”

As O’Connor adds more silky blouses and lace-trim items to her shop, McGovern emphasizes heavy fabrics, including velvet. The texture has enjoyed a comeback this fall. She hadn’t meant to collect a “trendy” item, but she’s glad people are investing in velvet and other rich fabrics. They’re ideal for fall layering and holiday party wear, she said.

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Nighthawks Vintage

“Doesn’t make sense to buy things because they’re in style,” McGovern advised. “It will always go out of style, so you should buy what speaks to your soul.”

She’s right. We should buy what we love, which always has a tendency to change. As the ebb and flow of trends push vintage to the forefront of fashion, we’ll be glad shop owners like her are doing all the heavy lifting to bring older styles to our fingertips so we can click “Add to Cart” when we discover the perfect crushed velvet blazer just in time for New Years.

Top Photo Credit: Addison Handmade & Vintage

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