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Planning A Trip? Hampton Roads Is Your LGBTQ Destination.

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Our 2019 Summer Pride Guide, in collaboration with VA Pride, is out now! Here’s one of our articles from that magazine, in which Outwire 757’s Eric Hause gives us a guide to the perfect LGBTQ vacation in Hampton Roads.

When you think about LGBTQ-friendly vacation destinations, there’s no doubt that big cities come to mind: San Francisco and New York, Buenos Aires and Sydney. But if you can’t afford a day or two — let alone a week — on such a globetrotting trip, look no further than your backyard for a destination that’s welcoming, affordable, and full of exciting things to see and do. 

I’m talking about Hampton Roads. 

Sure, you’re not going to collect beads at the carnival in Rio, or march in the World Pride Parade. But as a 25-year resident and leader in the local LGBTQ community, I can tell you that Hampton Roads has plenty to offer. Whether you’re looking for an all-gay, all-day party vacation, a refined cultural experience, or a sea adrift on memory bliss beach vacation, we’ve got it in Hampton Roads — Virginia’s cul de sac. 

Hampton Roads has come a long way in a short amount of time when it comes to affirming and welcoming LGBTQ visitors. The visitor bureaus in three of the major cities (Norfolk, Virginia Beach, and Hampton) have active LGBTQ travel marketing programs, and the local hospitality industry (which we all know would evaporate without queer employees) whole-heartedly supports those initiatives. 

In addition, Hampton Roads Pride and HRBOR (the area’s LGBTQ Chamber of Commerce) work closely with LGBTQ-owned and allied businesses to develop inclusive activities and safe spaces. 

Oh, and did I mention that you can’t swing a cat around here without hitting a festival, museum, or performing arts organization that offers LGBTQ programming? 

But that’s enough of the travel brochure propaganda. Let’s get on with it. Here are a few queer-themed and affirmative vacation itineraries, whether you’re visiting for a day or a week. 

Disclosure: I have personal experience with each of the businesses mentioned in this article. All are LGBTQ-friendly. 

Courtesy Virginia Beach CVB

The Urban Experience

Downtown Norfolk has become the spiritual center of the Hampton Roads LGBTQ community. That’s a far cry from the days when it was a collection of rundown warehouses, tattoo parlors, and shady bars with a level of debauchery so depraved that The New York Voice deemed it “Hell’s Half Acre.” 

The city’s contemporary version is a world-class destination that frequently ranks in Top Ten lists of mid-sized cities to visit. With waterfront festivals nearly every weekend from spring through autumn, world class arts organizations, museums, shopping, dining, and nightlife, it’s not your grandmother’s Norfolk any longer. 

Accommodations are varied, and range from the five-star mega-hotels to luxurious bed-and-breakfasts and quaint historic inns. 

The Hilton MAIN is the crown jewel of downtown Norfolk’s bustling scene. Plopped right in the center of it all, it’s definitely an upscale experience. With three excellent restaurants (including a rooftop bar with thrilling views of the harbor), immaculate overnight rooms with five-star amenities, and superior customer service, The MAIN competes with high-end hotels found mainly in large cities. 

For those interested in a quieter accommodation, check out two nearby LGBTQ-friendly inns. The Page House Inn is in a historic (and reputedly haunted) 1899 house in the Hague. The décor harkens back the home’s Victorian origins, but the rooms are spacious and comfortable with modern amenities. Your hostess, Miss Deb, always gets rave reviews from her guests. 

Option number two is Four Eleven York, a new boutique inn and restaurant concept located in the Freemason Historic District. Located in the former Freemason Inn Bed and Breakfast, the inn has been completely renovated, with amazing touches and a modernist feel. The owners also own the restaurant of the same name next door, which features an eclectic Modern American menu. 

Both Page House and Four Eleven are just steps from the Chrysler Museum, and a short walk to downtown, Ghent (Norfolk’s Gayborhood), and the artsy NEON district. 

Hilton MAIN (Photo by Keith Cephus)

After settling in, it’s time to explore, and all you’ll need is a comfortable pair of shoes. Downtown Norfolk is delightfully walkable. In the event you want to move more quickly, the Tide Light Rail traverses most of downtown with stops at nearly every street corner. If biking is more your speed, rent a PACE bike from one of the many rental stations throughout the area. 

Start at the Waterside District, located on Norfolk’s waterfront. Waterside is open year-round, day and night to accommodate next-level dining and entertainment for all ages. Grab a bite, a drink, and a seat overlooking the harbor, and take in some live tunes. This is where your vacation begins. 

From there, take a walk (or a bike) along Norfolk’s beautiful waterfront, which starts at Harbor Park (home of the Norfolk Tides baseball team), then proceeds to Town Point Park, the USS Wisconsin, and the Freemason District. This route is part of the Elizabeth River Trail, a 10.5-mile walking/biking trail that winds along the city’s harbor and riverfront. 

Nightlife is never in short supply downtown. Between restaurants and bars, live entertainment, and special events, there’s always something happening. Your best bet is to take a stroll down Granby Street after dark; you’ll find something appealing. 

If you’re in town between April and October, First Fridays are a must, with entertainment ranging from live music to June’s Stiletto Stomp drag race. A harbor cruise also brings a beautiful perspective on the city, with The American Rover offering sailing cruises departing daily from Waterside Marina. This summer, OutWire757 hosts two Rover LGBTQ charters: a Midnight Moonlight cruise in July, and a Farewell to Summer sail on Labor Day weekend.

The Spirit of Norfolk is also a great option for nightly dinner and dance cruises, as well as the occasional late-night drag show cruise. 

Head over to FestEvents for a schedule of upcoming festivals in Town Point Park. There’s one going on almost every weekend between May and October — of course, the one you won’t want to miss is Hampton Roads Pride in June. 

Finally, don’t forget to check out the performance schedules for Virginia Stage Company, Virginia Arts Festival, and SevenVenues. In the past, these organizations have brought top-notch LGBTQ favorites such as Kristin Chenoweth, Richard Alston Dance, Storm Large, and Wanda Sykes to town. 

You can also find the local queer community at three hopping LGBTQ clubs. MJs Tavern is a popular neighborhood bar, with a mixed clientele that’s open for lunch, dinner, and brunch on the weekends. The Wave is a late-night dance club with decidedly younger vibe. 37th and Zen hosts a mixed crowd and some interesting entertainment offerings, from Goth to kink, as well as karaoke and drag shows. 

Life’s A Beach

If a beach retreat is more to your liking, look no further than Norfolk’s sister city, Virginia Beach. The resort area is the heart of the region’s travel industry. 

Comprised of a four-mile stretch of resorts, restaurants, nightlife, and activities along a paved oceanfront boardwalk, the resort area has seen its share of reputation-challenging events over the past couple of decades. However, Virginia Beach has turned that around with the advent of a development facelift and world-class events and festivals, such as the recent Something in the Water Festival, that are committed to creating an inclusive and diverse experience for all travelers. 

The newly-remodeled Cavalier Hotel on the north end lends a luxurious touch to any vacation. Over the past 100 years, the Cavalier has welcomed ten U.S. Presidents, as well as countless celebrities and distinguished guests from around the world. Perched on a grassy hill overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, that history has earned the Cavalier a spot on the National Register of Historic Places. 

Today, it offers a complete vacation experience and actively welcomes the LGBTQ community. With 85 jaw-dropping guest rooms, five-star dining in one of the resort’s three restaurants, a full-service spa, and an on-site whiskey and bourbon distillery, you might not want to leave the property. 

Courtesy The Cavalier

One of our other favorite hotels is the delightfully modern Oceanaire Resort. The 18-story oceanfront tower is filled with contemporary touches, which garnered the distinguished Project of Excellence Award at the 2013 ARDA World Convention. 

There’s so much to do here, too. Catch a breathtaking sunrise over the ocean from the tenth floor Skydeck. Spend the day basking on the beach. Take a dip in the adults-only Aqua 21 indoor pool. Head out for an evening of bar-hopping along the boardwalk, then be lulled to sleep to the sound of the surf in your ocean-view room. It’s worth mentioning that the Cavalier and the Oceanaire are two of many Virginia Beach resorts that host weddings, with a particular emphasis on LGBTQ nuptials. 

Virginia Beach is also known for its thousands of vacation rental homes. Particularly suited for long, lazy family or group beach vacations, homes range from mansions to quaint cedar-shingle beach boxes. 

For a get-away-from-it-all beach vacation, take a look at Sandbridge. Often compared to North Carolina’s Outer Banks, Sandbridge is only minutes from the resort area, but worlds away in terms of its relaxed pace and beach community vibe. Most of the homes are in a vacation rental program, and none are more than two blocks from the oceanfront. LGBTQ-friendly Siebert Realty carries hundreds of fully-furnished beach home and condo rentals. 

So it’s Saturday night, and you’re asking yourself, where’s the queer nightlife in Virginia Beach? 

First of all, you’re going to want to head over to the ViBe Creative District. Just a couple of blocks off the Oceanfront, ViBe is Virginia Beach’s cultural arts enclave, and a hub for artisans of all disciplines. Food and beverage options are plentiful, and range from pork all ways at Beach Bully Barbecue to organic, seasonal, and sustainable fare at Commune. 

After dinner, take a stroll around the ViBe to admire the colorful original murals, pop in to Chesapeake Bay Distillery for a tasting of their signature Blue Ridge Vodka, or settle with a good cup of java at Bad Ass Coffee. 

After dinner, head to Virginia Beach’s Town Center for a show at The Sandler Center for the Performing Arts, or something more cutting-edge at Zeiders American Dream Theater. 

Sandler focuses on nationally-renowned artists, and has hosted LGBTQ performers such as Melissa Etheridge, David Sedaris, and Michael Feinstein. Just across the street, the new Zeiders American Dream Theater’s mission is to foster and introduce new artists, composers, and creative writers. Here you’ll find original comedy, story slams, live music of all genres, and an open and welcoming community. 

After the show, stop in to The Rainbow Cactus, Virginia Beach’s only traditional LGBTQ bar. The Cactus welcomes all ages and identities, with everything from live music to drag shows to late-night dance parties. 

Of course, a beach vacation wouldn’t be complete without exploring Virginia Beach’s natural wonders. We suggest you head out to sea with a Rudee Tours cruise. The company has operated local sightseeing tours out of Rudee Inlet for more than 35 years, including dolphin tours, whale-watching tours, sunset cruises, and the infamous Rudee Rocket (a must for high-speed thrill seekers). 

For another view of the area’s oceangoing wildlife, spend a couple of hours at the Virginia Aquarium, where you’ll be wowed by 800,000 gallons of aquariums and animal habitats. The Aquarium also produces a number of learning boat tours, as well as a challenging Adventure Park ropes course for those who enjoy a more hands-on experience. 

On the north end, First Landing State Park is a queer camping and outdoor recreation favorite. Sprawled across 3,000 acres of wetland and sandy beaches at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, it’s a quiet oasis adjacent to the fast pace of the resort area. 

Visiting for the day? Grab a quiet spot on the beach, take a hike or a bike on 19 miles of trails, or spread out a picnic under the shade of ancient cypress and pine trees. 

The park is a great overnight option for those inclined to commune closely with nature. It has 200 wooded or open campsites nestled behind the back dunes of the beach, and 20 modern cabins with central heat and air, running water, and kitchens. 

Beyond The Metro

Queer Hampton Roads isn’t just Norfolk and Virginia Beach. Take a look beyond the well-worn path for other LGBTQ-owned and allied businesses in places like Hampton, Williamsburg and the Eastern Shore. For a self-reported list of those across the Commonwealth, visit Virginia Tourism at www.virginia.org/LGBT. 

Top Photo by Eric Hause

Something In The Water Spread Love Across Virginia Beach

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Put together by Virginia Beach native Pharrell, the inaugural Something In The Water festival brought music, art, togetherness, and creativity to College Beach Weekend.

Pharrell’s Something in the Water music festival in Virginia Beach, VA brought tens of thousands of people to the water on the last weekend in April. A Virginia Beach native, Pharrell began planning the event in the fall; it was born out of his idea to cultivate a structured event during Virginia’s College Beach Weekend.

College Beach Weekend takes place around the end of the spring semester and is largely an event for Virginia’s historically black colleges and universities (HBCUs), dating back to when it was called Greekfest in the late 80s and early 90s.

During the Pharrell and Friends set on Saturday night, New York born rapper Sean “Puff Daddy” Combs took the stage, singing “Finna Get Loose,” “Mo Money Mo Problems,” and “All About The Benjamins.” At the end, after profusely thanking Pharrell, AKA the “King of Virginia” as most performers were calling him, P Diddy called out the City of Virginia Beach for its racist past. He noted that Greekfest was shut down years ago because the city was afraid of black and brown people coming to the area in large numbers over a short period of time. Pharrell interjected by the end, making sure to tell the crowd “It’s all love here.”

Barring Friday’s weather-induced cancellation, the festival went off without a hitch. There were officers everywhere by the waterfront, mostly acting as crossing guards. Festival goers were required to walk through metal detectors and have their bags searched.

The extended area covered by the festival featured all sorts of activities for concertgoers, including sports and other outdoor activities, booths for local businesses, and a pop-up church service that was open to the community. Performers included SZA, Mac Demarco, Travis Scott, Rosalia, Jhene Aiko, Virgil Abloh, and even some surprise guests like Jay-Z and Tyler, the Creator.

Panels on different discussion topics were held throughout the day at the Convention Center, and there was even an art walk constructed along the Oceanfront, with art displayed at various locations throughout the ViBe Creative District. Virginia artists with works on display included Mickael Broth, Charles Rasputin, Nils Westergard, and many more.

Saturday and Sunday were hot. Every performer ended their set with thanks to the crowd, to Virginia Beach, to Pharrell, and advice to hydrate. RMC Events staffers threw water bottles into the standing crowd, and audience members sprayed it in the air to cool the crowd off. As expected, due to the heat, some people passed out from dehydration, but the crowd always parted and first aid responders were punctual. There were no deaths, but a lot of heat exhaustion.

Away from the stage, festival goers had to keep hydrated with $4 water bottles from the various food stands lining the sides of the blocked off beach. Prices for alcohol were significantly higher; a single beer was $12, and cocktails were a whopping $16. Adding an extra shot was another eight bucks.

This did not stop the crowd from imbibing. As the drinks appropriately flowed, audience members ate hamburgers or jerk chicken from food stands, drank boardwalk lemonade, licked Rita’s ice cream, or enjoyed whatever free treat was provided by UberEats for the hour. In order to create an eco-friendly atmosphere, the festival chose not to provide plastic bags or straws for food nor merchandise.

The concert attracted people from across the Commonwealth and beyond, ages ranging from college students to older hip hop and rap fans – there were even a few families with toddlers. For the concertgoers not interested in the packed crowd, there was space for laying down blankets and soaking in the sun with a good view of the monitor airing the current performances. Families and friends swayed to the music, dancing with strangers and enjoying the clear weather. Like Pharrell said, and repeated often, “It’s all love here.”

Written by Christina McBride and Aviance Hawkes. Photos by Aviance Hawkes.

Music Sponsored By Graduate Richmond

Nico Cathcart’s Resilience Highlights Virginia Beach’s Thriving ViBe Creative District

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Cathcart’s mural exhibition at BOJUart Gallery is a great example of the growing artistic scene in Virginia Beach’s ViBe Creative District.

It’s the first First Friday of 2019 in Virginia Beach’s ViBe Creative District, and Nico Cathcart is beginning her live mural; a 25-ft long stretch of wood, located in the main room of BOJUart Gallery. On it, outlines of birds: halcyon kingfishers, eastern bluebirds, a Gray Jay — an aide-memoire to her previous life in Canada. Cathcart will be painting the mural as a live exhibit spanning the next four weeks, but not just because she finds birds totally super cool.

Cathcart is in the process of becoming deaf. The hairs of her cochlea are slowly balding through a process of tone-based, degenerative hearing loss. She wears hearing aids which helps her hold conversations and listen to some of her old favorite songs, but her condition affects both volume and tone. An avid birdwatcher, Cathcart first took notice of her condition when birds in the woods bordering her home began to go silent.

“I first started noticing when I was missing words,” she said. “But really, the birds I noticed, because my trips to the woods started to go silent. I can’t hear cicadas, birds, crickets — normal stuff along the James. I realized this was gone, and I can’t get that back.” Currently at 30% hearing capacity, Cathcart fully understands that, one day soon, her hearing will stop, its remnants relegated to memory.

Photo by John Donegan

Her work has since been a myriad of bird paintings, most oil, pencil, and gouache-based. The majority of these are featured as part of Resilience, her latest exhibit, an immersive, interactive experience curated by BOJUart Gallery. The exhibit encircles the other three-quarters of the room in which she’s painting her mural. The works operate as mementos, whether to her departed loved ones or as chapters of her own mythology.

Cathcart’s exhibit at BOJUart is an example of the growing arts initiative in Virginia Beach, part of the Virginia Beach Arts District’s effort to reclaim a resort town ailing from its own irrelevance.

Though state lawmakers began offering tax incentives for Virginia art localities as early as 2009, it wasn’t until 2015 that an organization, The ViBe Creative District of Virginia Beach, was approved under an ordinance and officially tasked with roping in an ensemble. The ViBe is an official 501(c)(3), recognized by the IRS as a non-profit, with the ability to accept tax-deductible contributions and offer tax incentives to artists and entrepreneurs looking to rehabilitate buildings.

In 2018, the city announced the ViBe Creative District Matching Grant Program, which provides grants to small, locally owned and operated businesses located within the district for building improvements and equipment.

Kate Pittman,  Executive Director of the ViBe Creative District nonprofit, is the linchpin of this great machine. She acts as liaison between the city’s public efforts to build the arts district, the private-sector small businesses, and local artists. She knows the right people and speaks in bureaucratic tongues. She knows well in advance which permits to apply for, she attends every First Fridays, shakes the hands, and always wears a smile.

Mural by ARCY at Wareing’s Gym. Photograph by BirdMad Media

Pittman was hired in November 2016, after she’d spent 11 years working for Virginia MOCA overseeing museum operations. ViBe co-founders Andrew Fine, of The Runnymede Corporation, and Laura Wood Habr, of Croc’s 19th Street Bistro, worked on and off with the City of Virginia Beach’s Office of Cultural Affairs since 2013; researching, holding City stakeholder meetings, and engaging in grass roots efforts with local businesses to discuss the creation of an arts district.

“When I was hired in 2016, the nonprofit and supporting business association were fairly new,” Pittman said. “My role was to get everyone activated, which involved meetings with local government, grant funders, and private donors.”

Since the ViBe’s inception, Pittman and involved artists have overseen the successful expansion of a district unmatched in the Hampton Roads area; an artistic sprawl of artists and creative businesses, including restaurants, galleries, museums, and roasteries, as well as murals and sidewalk art.

“All this has resulted in the creation of 30 new businesses since City Council established the ViBe boundaries and incentives in 2015, and the addition of over 100 works of art in the neighborhood,” Pittman said. “My previous role at Virginia MOCA, and [my] established relationships with City staff, were an absolute benefit… but really, it took everyone involved, from a grass-roots effort all the way to the top of City leadership at City Manager and Council level, for this success to happen.”

Group on walking tour in the ViBe District. Photograph by Andi + Zoe Photography

Pittman is involved in virtually every function of the district. She’s also the only official staff member, with the exception of her intern. She does a bi-monthly mural tour for interested patrons, 75 tours per year, even when that entails standing out in the cold, Coleman lantern in hand, waiting for strangers to show up. “I run two boards — a non profit board and a business association board,” she said. “We have approximately 75 local business members and engage with over 100 local artists. In addition, I work with around eight different City departments to execute projects, from Cultural Affairs to Public Utilities to the Public Schools.”

Pittman stressed that the key to the ViBe Creative District’s success was to cater to art in a broad sense, and strive for it be self sufficient. This commitment shows in the broad spectrum of organizations they work with; on weekends in the right season, the Old Beach Farmers Market sets up at the corner of 19th and Cypress St. In other parts of the year, the Virginia Beach Flea Market sets up adjacent to convention center on the west end of 19th street. And of course, there’s always a strong connection to the local community — most of the restaurants are farm to table, and anything not grown feet away from the kitchens is usually purchased from local farm stands.

Pittman says the district looks to continue its growth indefinitely. That said, continuing work on the city is visible, and far from complete. Streets along the fringe of the district are still littered with construction blocks, cracked roads, and caterpillar cranes. Stripped down malls, chipped-paint warehouses, and worn-down city streets still appear every other block or so. At 19 square blocks, the district still has the room for expansion.

And as Pittman tells us, that expansion is coming. “In 2019, we look forward to a 2nd annual ViBe Mural Festival, to add ’10 Murals in 10 Days’ throughout the district,” she said. “These large scale works have the greatest impact in our neighborhood. Smaller public art projects, such as sidewalk art, creative crosswalks, and a new utility box project, are also planned this year, with a potential to add 75-plus new works of art to the district.”

And that’s not even all — Pittman also mentioned a new brewery opening up on 18th Street in 2019, the arrival of the Virginia Beach Art Center and Artist’s Gallery on 17th Street, and numerous new commercial tenants coming to the district. “Private development will be big in 2019-2020,” she said.

Mural by Igor (original artwork by American painter Peter Helck) at Abacus of Hampton Roads. Photograph by George Culver.

Virginia Beach has always had the reputation of an up-and-coming resort town, but until recently, the city never seemed to see any real change come to fruition. It was a town of forgotten and misplaced projects. But large gains in tourism over recent years, with 2017 marking its sixth consecutive year of growth, have changed all that.

“Our organization is recognized, and was a catalyst for several others in the city, as a model to follow to engage private sector with city leadership,” Pittman said. “And perhaps most importantly, the positive media attention that the ViBe generates for the City of Virginia Beach is undeniable — we are a point of pride for our city, and represent the authentic Virginia Beach experience.”

However, some city officials are concerned over how much revenue a new arts district is able to bring to the city. With a new slate of leaders elected this past November, it remains to be seen whether the city’s new administration will have the same enthusiasm as previous ones. Former City Councilman Bobby Dyer took office as Virginia Beach’s new mayor after defeating Ben Davenport in the November election. In a November interview with the Virginian-Pilot, Dyer ensured he would “continue to honor [his] promise to build positive bridges with the City Council and my commitment to the public.” We reached out to Dyer’s office for comment, but no response has been sent over.

However, Pittman feels positive about the district’s ability to survive the transition. “We are very positive that our documented success to date will encourage City leadership to continue investing in the ViBe Creative District as the City’s one and only art district,” she said. “Programs that we helped advocate for and administer, such as the ViBe Small Business Matching Grant program, are piloted here to prove success and are transferable to other areas of our City.”

Nico Cathcart, Millie and William, oil on canvas, 48 x 30 inches

In a corner of BOJUart Gallery’s main room, a poster is taped to the wall, with a wooden stand beneath. On the stand are bowls of cut-out birds and markers, shared so that guests to write in forms of loss and pain they experience. For Nico Cathcart, this part of the project is a way to connect with members of the local community, by sharing their experiences on a murmuration wall. With this communal aspect of the project, Cathcart hopes to make some broader meaning of the grief that accompanies her loss.

Cathcart will be working on her mural at BOJUart Gallery, located at 1703 Mediterranean Ave in Virginia Beach’s ViBe Creative District, throughout the month of January, with the grand finale taking place on Thursday, January 24 and Friday, January 25 from 6-9 PM. Once it is completed, interested enthusiasts will have the opportunity to purchase the complete mural, or one of the five 4’x5’ panels of which it is comprised, for either indoor or outdoor display.

Check out the BOJUart Gallery for more information on Cathcart’s work and upcoming exhibits. For more information on the ViBe District, follow the link here.

Top Image: Nico Cathcart, Together, oil on canvas, 24x 48 inches