With only a few more weeks until legendary chef Peter Chang opens a new location near Broad and Boulevard, we got the chance to sit down and try some of his highly anticipated eats.
With only a few more weeks until legendary chef Peter Chang opens a new location near Broad and Boulevard, we got the chance to sit down and try some of his highly anticipated eats.
Chang, whose cooking is only matched by his impressive resume, has a number of locations around the Virginia, DC and Maryland, but this will be his first spot within city limits.
The dining room is a bit smaller than the Short Pump locations, but it looks quite impressive in the historic Hofheimer Building’s lower floor, which is slated to open as an event venue space sometime this month.
Vaulted ceilings and a massive red and gold mural greet you as you enter the dining room, but the real treat comes about 15 minutes after placing your order.
I spoke with Chang, who speaks little to no English, with the help of his real estate agent as a translator, so some of these quotes are second hand. We’re going to run through this dish by dish, so if you’re not hungry now, be prepared for stomach rumbles and maybe a little drooling.
Szechuan Cold Mixed Noodles
This delightful appetizer is served cold, something Chang said was designed to combat summer heat. It resembled a sesame noodle dish, but more fresh and light. The Szechuan-style comes into play because the spices involved create a slight numbing feeling, something attributed to the Chinese sour Chinese Black vinegar.
Shredded Tofu Skin
While a bit intimidating at first glance, this dish features thinly sliced tofu skin, the outer later of a tofu brick (as was best explained to me) which is dipped into a premade sauce. It’s then dried so it can soak up anther sauce before being sliced again. It’s then boiled in a broth of seasonings like cilantro and onions. Once it is cooled, they slice it again, this time into the ribbons which you’ll see on your plate. Its texture was somewhere between a pasta and a fried-tofu if that makes sense. Either way it was refreshing and not too filling.
Spicy Lotus root with Sticky Rice
This dish was incredible. I told Chang to make whatever he wanted and this dish stood out for sure. The lotus root is thinly sliced (a common trend it seems) and stuffed with sticky rice. Chang called it a traditional way to cook lotus root. They then add the spice which is absorbed by the rice as well as the root. It’s all slighted coated in a simple flour mixture and fried and served with leeks and peppers. It was really fantastic.
Bamboo Flounder Fish
This was another dish that blew my mind. Thinly sliced flounder is breaded and fried. Chang called the thin slice a basic skill for all Chinese chefs, but a specialty for him. “If you cut the thin slice, the seasoning absorbs into it, so it doesn’t taste fishy.” He was right – the consistency of the fish was unlike anything I’ve ever tasted. It could be comparable to a British fish and chips dish in that it’s hunks of fried and breaded fish, but much much better.
Spicy Sautéed Diced Chicken
This dish was incredible as well. A simple diced chicken stir fried in red oil and served with scallions and dried chili peppers. The red oil is made by combining a number of spices – chili powder, onion, ginger and cumin among others – and low-frying it to create a deep, red and spicy finish. Imagine popcorn chicken but better.
You’ll notice a few of the dishes are served in these little thatched bamboo structures. Chang said his home town in China has a lot of bamboo so he wanted to bring some of that here to add to the authenticity of the experience. He compared the structures to bamboo boats that are used by people in his home land to float down the river. In this restaurant’s case, the boats also connect to the earlier mentioned massive red-river mural along the back wall.
Chang said the boats are meant to represent diners’ safe and successful travels as they float down the lucky red river.
Chang showing off some of his spices
“We want people to realize they love Peter Chang’s dishes because they are special,” he said. “You can’t find them anyplace else. They are also fresh and natural authentic Chinese dishes.”
The new location will also offer carry out, something he added only within the last year at the Short Pump location. He hopes to tap into the VCU student crowd as well as downtown offices.
Either way, we are excited. And yes, scallion pancakes are on the menu!!
