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A Night In Havana: Cuban Pop Up at Belle & James

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I first had the chance to try a menu prepared by restaurant veteran Mike Ledesma back in August when he was brought on to serve as Executive Chef at Kabana Rooftop. From Chili-lime mussels in a coconut curry broth to ribs and tandoori lamb and fried oysters, his creativity with the cuisine is abound over at the East Main Street restaurant and bar so if you haven’t been to try it out, I suggest heading up there one night for some cocktails and a meal.

Anyway, when I heard Chef Ledesma was putting on pop up dinners at Belle & James, the restaurant below Kabana, I had to venture out to try his latest dishes.

Belle & James is currently hosting “Passport Pop Ups” on Friday and Saturday evenings and was created by Ledesma and restaurant owner Kunal Shah to introduce Richmond to flavors, recipes and traditional cuisines from around the world.

The restaurant completed a successful pop-up with the Philippines and decided to continue with a different country every three months. Passport Pop-up includes a-la-carte dishes with the option of a Chef Tasting for those who want to try it all, using traditional ingredients and aspects of the featured country along with signature cocktails and wine pairings to enhance the flavors of the dishes.

A few weeks ago, my fiancé and I had the pleasure of trying out their latest pop-up featuring dishes and traditional cuisine from Cuba. As soon as you walked in you were transported into Havana with festive music, and candles, red flowers and Cuban cigar boxes on the tables.

We started with cocktails. I opted for the Cubanita, a twist on the everyday margarita made with Camarena Silver Tequila, pineapple juice, lemonade, and lime. It was delicious and fresh and a must try if you choose to go to the pop-up. My fiancé enjoyed their Cuban Old Fashioned, made with an aged rum. Not for me, but definitely a manly drink that packed a punch with some flavor.

To curb our appetites, we ordered the empanadas  which came with a savory, creamy chimichurri sauce and we couldn’t get enough of it. The spicy ground beef and green olives were a delicious combination with the sauce and one of my favorite dishes of the night. This, along with every dish was plated and presented beautifully.

Next, Chef Ledesma brought Ropa Vieja to our table, which dazzled on the plate as well as the palette with all the different colors and flavors. With 12-hour braised and shredded flank steak as the star, the dish was supported by black beans, rice, peppers, onions, plantains, and yuca in a tomato base.  This was easily my fiancé’s favorite dish of the night, he couldn’t stop raving about it. The meat was so tender and flavorful and a burst of different spices danced around in my mouth as soon as I took the first bite. The savory dish was filling and cozy.

After that, Cuban Mojo Shrimp were brought to the table delicately placed on a plate with a flower and some more of that delicious chimichurri sauce. The huge shrimp were marinated in garlic and orange juice, chili flakes, oregano, and cumin and were juicy and not chewy at all. It was a good little appetizer to satisfy your cravings and pair with a cocktail while we awaited our main course.

For the main dish, we decided to try the paella which is big enough for two people, maybe even three to share. It’s brimming over with flavor and comes steaming hot in a cast iron skillet packed with New England lobster, mussels, clams, Spanish chorizo, and peas, mixed together splendidly with rice. It was hands down one of the best paella dishes I’ve tasted. I loved the spicy chorizo and the shrimp were huge. Some paella dishes only come with a few pieces of protein and are packed with rice,  but as you can see from the picture below, that wasn’t a problem. I will say the only item I wasn’t absolutely crazy about in the dish was the lobster, but it could have been just me because my fiancé thought it tasted great.

For our final course, we decided to try the plantain tarte, a soft and flaky puff pastry made with plantains, cinnamon, and rum topped with a scoop of ice cream. It wasn’t too sweet and was the perfect size to wrap up your meal so your sweet tooth was satisfied, but didn’t leave feeling overstuffed. 

All of the appetizers at Belle & James’ Cuban Pop Up are under $15 and all of the entrees are under $30 with the exception of the paella, which serves two people. From the atmosphere to the music, the cocktails, and the delicious dishes, the Cuba Passport Pop Up is sure to satisfy any palette and if this one is any indication of forthcoming pop ups, the series is bound for success. The next Cuban Pop Up will kick off this Friday and Saturday night. Be sure to go try it before it comes to a close Dec. 29.

And be on the lookout for an in-depth interview with Chef Ledesma in the next print issue of RVA Magazine! 

A look at Richmond’s 59th Armenian Food Festival

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On the third weekend of every September, the congregation of St. James Armenian Church hosts the Armenian Food Festival. In 1956, the Armenian community of Richmond founded the church, located at 834 Pepper Ave., and two years later the parish began the annual festival, which is the oldest in the area. This year marked the 59th anniversary of the event and hungry attendees dined on traditional Armenian dishes cooked by the church’s members such as chicken and pork shish kabobs, hye burgers, lupia, pilaf, lahmejoon, pakhlava, as well as Armenian beers and wines. The hye burger has been voted one of the top burgers in Richmond and is one of the most sought after burgers in town because it’s only available for three days a year.

RVA Mag ventured out to the festival this weekend to taste some of the Armenian fare being offered, listen to music and dance performances by the St. James Dance Ensemble, and get the full experience.

The Hye Burger Combo

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Credit: Armenian Food Festival

Using a combination of ground sirloin and lamb, the hye burger features a medley of delicious Armenian spices from cumin and mint to paprika and crushed red peppers, served on a piece of pita. Because they are so juicy rich with distinct flavor, there is no need for toppings aside sautéed onions and peppers. These six-ounce grilled patties are combined with a traditional green bean dish, called lupia, and rice side, called pilaf. The pilaf was a delicious compliment because of its preparation. Pilaf is slightly sautéed rice that is then thoroughly cooked in a seasoned broth of familiar spices. As for the lupia, which are green beans cooked in a “special sauce” of meat and spices like clove and garlic rounded out the dish. The hye burger is understandably “hyped” up for a reason.

Chicken Shish Kabob

A common Middle Eastern dish, the chicken shish kebob served at the festival was a scrumptious mouthful. The chicken is marinated in a blend of crushed chile powder, garlic, onions, turmeric, saffron, lemon juice, and olive oil over night. In the morning, they are skewered and grilled by flipping the skewers every few minutes or so until they are evenly cooked and the trademark char is visible. Some of these dishes are even marinated in yogurt to make the chicken creamier. The Armenian Festival’s rendition did not disappoint. I could barely finish it all!

Armenian Dessert Assortment

Sold in sets of three, pakhlava, kataif, and khourabia cookies were the dessert package of choice. Pakhlava is a classic, and it the best sweet option to follow-up after a hye burger. This flaky divine pastry is made by baking layers of unleavened dough filled with chopped nuts, held all together by syrup and honey. Using almost spaghetti like layers of the same unleavened dough, kataif is a cylindrical pastry stuffed to the brim with fruit, nuts, or cheese. The last of the selection was the khourabia cookie, a cookie made with walnut sugar. As appealing as they sound, these cookies crumbled like dirt when I took a bite. 

Kotayk Lager

The wine and spirits variety at the festival displayed two different red wines, one white, and a lager from the Armenian national Kotayk Brewery. This brewery takes its name from the province of Armenia that houses its home city of Abovyan. The Kotayk Lager clocks in at 5.2% and was quite frankly the smooth beer one needs to quench the thirst after a hye burger, but who doesn’t have a beer with their burger?

Kabana Rooftop chef to open restaurant in Scott’s Addition

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Kabana Rooftop’s head chef, Mike Ledesma, is set to open his first independent restaurant in Richmond’s Scott’s Addition neighborhood.

The restaurant will reflect Ledesma’s mastery of New American cuisine, drawing inspiration from his culinary travels as well as his Filipino culture.

“When you open a restaurant, you get to take full ownership of the menu and the path it’s going to take,” Ledesma said in a recent press release. “I like to have the ability to push culinary trends. When I play with food, I want it to be creative.”

Originally from Baltimore, Ledesma discovered his passion for the culinary arts while living in Oahu, Hawaii. After traveling back to the east coast, Ledesma moved to Richmond in 2011 to open the downtown Hard Shell location and in 2015 up until last month, he served at the helm of Richmond Restaurant Group (The Hard Shell, The Daily Kitchen & Bar, Pearl Raw Bar) as Corporate Executive Chef.

In August, he came on as Executive Chef for Kabana Rooftop, giving his own spin to their menu.

Top photo credit: Jess Aicholtz

Ledesma hopes to use his forthcoming restaurant to support local culinary schools and the Richmond community.

“It’s nice to put money back into the city,” Ledesma said. “Now, having a place to train, I want to give students a real world experience.”

The opening date for Ledesma’s restaurant is yet to be announced but it will be located at 2918 W. Broad St. which housed Chinese restaurant, Joy Garden for almost 60 years. And if the menu is anything like his creative and delicious dishes at Kabana, it’s going to be popular spot for sure. 

 

Self-serve wine bar pours refreshing new concept into Scott’s Addition

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The arrival of Richmond Wine Station, a retail outlet and tasting room with self-service wine options, is a refreshing concept to the brewery-heavy Scott’s Addition. It’s a popular model in California and Colorado, but a young one on the East Coast and a first for Richmond. We visited the Broad Street storefront last week to learn more, and try a little wine of course.

The wine bar is built around a namesake technology called WineStations. The stations hold four vertical bottles in temperature-controlled environments, using argon gas to maintain freshness. This is the first spot in Richmond built around them, inspired by a trip to South Carolina, where general manager Bill Hartsock saw a smaller operation on Kiawah Island.

Richmond Wine Station has 16 units housing 4 bottles each, for a total of 64 wines, which are organized around style and flavor. Unlike a brewery, patrons show ID at the door; once in, there is no bartender.

Purchases are made from two types of smart cards; either a pre-paid, reloadable membership card, or a bar tab style card linked to a credit card. At the machine, patrons choose from single-ounce tasting pours, half glasses, or full glasses. Tasting pours are under $2, with glasses usually between $5 and $7.

Wines on tap can also be purchased in bottles, sold at retail prices. Patrons can drink from the bottle on-site or take it home. City permitting has delayed food, but Hartsock assures it’s coming soon. He’s working with neighbor Mosaic Catering and Events to offer traditional vineyard fare. Cheese, charcuterie, spreads, breads, and crackers will be among the offerings.

Recommendations are offered, aided by Hartsock’s sommelier background and the dispensing machines tracking capabilities. Merlot and Pinot Noir drinkers alike can feel at home; Hartsock assures that his recommendations are judgment-free.

Not to worry craft beer enthusiasts that get pulled there by their wine-loving friend, spouse or significant other, there’s something for you too.  A different card provides access to eight taps of beer, from a variety of suppliers at Richmond Wine Station. 

Many patrons seemed to come on foot from the neighborhood, but they have bike racks and car parking too. Friday and Saturday nights are busiest, but they are open daily from 3pm to 11pm,

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Indoors, it’s comfortable couches and butcher-block style high-tops. They also offer outdoor seating, in a small courtyard surrounded by grapevines. Self-serve invites comparisons to froyo, but it’s more like a convivial coffee shop.

It’s all very cozy, with a striking lack of cellphones and laptops. Despite the free wi-fi, the only cell phone I saw was mine; everyone else was too busy enjoying the ambience, their company, and the wine. Richmond Wine Station is located at 2930 W. Broad St.

Kabana Rooftop Revamped: A new chef and new menu take the restaurant to new heights

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Located on the 20th floor of Hilton’s Hampton Inn and Suites and Homewood Suites above Belle & James restaurant on East Main Street sits Kabana Rooftop.

This week, the rooftop restaurant and lounge announced its revamp with a new menu and cocktails, with restaurant veteran Mike Ledesma at the helm as Executive Chef.

A former partner with Richmond Restaurant Group (RRG), Ledesma brings over 16 years of experience to the rooftop restaurant and lounge. Enrolling in culinary school in 2000 in Hawaii, the new chef moved to Richmond in 2011 and opened The Hard Shell, a part of RRG. He’s since opened French/Belgian restaurant Max’s on Broad, relaunched Patina Restaurant and Bar, and in 2015, he returned to RRG as Corporate Executive Chef for the menu development for The Daily Kitchen and Bar, East Coast Provisions, Pearl Raw Bar, The Hill Café and both Hard Shell locations.

On Wednesday evening, RVA Mag had a chance to try out some of Ledesma’s dishes that are featured on the menu. Now to be fair, this was my first time at Kabana so I didn’t have anything to compare it to so I can’t speak on the menu prior to Ledema’s arrival, but all of the dishes we sampled at Kabana were excellent, creative, and presented with flair.

When we first sat down, we were greeted with crab gazpacho. Gazpacho isn’t something I usually order when I’m out, not because I don’t like it, just not something I tend to go for. Anyway, this little tiny dish was full of flavor and I wish I had more of it. The gazpacho, made up of tomato, cucumber, and red peppers, was spicy and the huge chunks of crab meat coupled with their house white wine started off the tasting right. I loved the spice and the crab meat was tasty. This is a perfect summer dish to cool you off without feeling too full.

Next, we enjoyed ribs, with a potato croquette and jicama slaw. Unlike my fiance, I’m not as bbq-obsessed as he is, but these were delicious. Falling off the bone and packed with flavor. The combination of the tender meat, with the crunchy potato cake and fresh, light slaw made for a superb combination.

My personal favorite of the night was delivered to our table after the ribs. Chili-lime mussels with coconut curry, red peppers, and basil. I could have eaten this all night. The broth was delicious and the bread they served with the mussels was great for sopping up all the leftover broth once we’d finished the mussels. The mussels were tender and the red pepper sweetness paired with the velvety, spicy curry broth and the mildness of the basil made for a myriad of flavors dancing around on my tongue. A stellar dish and one not to miss if you go to Kabana.

After the mussels, we were brought a colorful, eye-catching tuna poke bowl. The ahi tuna was the star obviously, fresh and tender, but the crunchy sesame seeds, seaweed and chili aioli held their own turning this into not just a delicious one, but a fun one to eat with so many textures and flavors. I don’t like avocado, so I let it be, but my fiance thought it was a nice refreshing touch to the dish. And I could put chili aioli on anything, so that really made this dish for me.

Normally, I don’t order lamb when I go out, but right away, when the tandoori lamb was brought to our table, I was curious. The spices on the lamb were wonderful and the meat was tender and juicy. It came with a house-made tzatziki sauce that cooled off the palette and made me want to keep going back for more. The lamb came with a side of green tomato mint chutney and I don’t like mint, which I know is standard with lamb, but the chutney paired nicely. The accompanying glazed carrots were crunchy and I don’t know that they necessarily fit this dish, but they were good. All in all, a good dish!

The next plate came, and it was just as interesting and flavorful as the last. Hush puppy fried oysters with a cornmeal crust were paired with a bright, summery succotash and chili vinaigrette. The succotash was super yummy and the vinaigrette seemed like a great pairing, not too heavy, but still tasty and brought flavor to the oysters. There was a splendid marriage of salty and spicy. Good little appetizer to start off your night.

We received Mango Jalapeno Ceviche for our next dish, which I think came out earlier before we got there as a small plate. As you can see from the photo, a lot going on here and very eye-catching. However, I wasn’t as crazy about this dish as much as the other ones, the fish tasted a little off to me, but the spicy jalapeno and bright and citrusy mango came through strong and made up for the fish so dipping the chips into that was very good.

 

For Kabana Rooftop’s final dish, we were brought beet tartare which was a delight for the eyes and my taste buds. It was so cute the way it was presented I didn’t even want to eat it, but of course I had to dig in. With the lemon, creamy, but light goat cheese topping paired with the mild beets it was a tasty dish and a great palette cleanser after all the food. Not sweet at all, but the dish offered a variety of flavors and textures between the soft goat cheese, and “lovosh”, a small, crunhcy, flatbread served on the side that paired nicely with the beets.

Oh, we were also treated to a delicious charcuterie and cheese board as well, but unfortunately I ate that so fast we didn’t get a good picture. But make sure to try that out.

This new chef and new menu coupled with the amazing views of downtown Richmond, really take Kabana Rooftop to the next level. If you haven’t already, head to the restaurant/lounge to check out what this new chef is serving up!

 

Bellytimber Tavern to close, owners to reopen as Beauvine

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On Wednesday, Fan restaurant Bellytimber Tavern, will close for the summer as it undergoes some major changes.

Owner Patrick Stamper {above/En Su Boca} plans to do a complete overhaul of the restaurant and reopen in late August with a new concept called Beauvine.

“There were a couple big projects that needed to get done that would have demanded us closing for a short period of time and that started a conversation about what we could do there, and that sort of evolved into maybe Bellytimber had a hell of a run and perhaps we could plug in a new concept there,” said Stamper.

The West Main Street restaurant originally opened in 2010 and became known for its brick oven pizza, vegan options, weekend brunch and extensive build-your-own Bloody Mary bar. (It is truly a masterpiece.)

Stamper couldn’t reveal many details on the menu, but did mention that the restaurant will not be serving pizza. However, fans of a boozy brunch need not worry, the Bloody Mary Bar will remain when Beauvine opens so you can load up on as many mixers, hot sauces, pickled veggies, and spices as your heart and liver can take.

“We feel like we kind of started that, the big Bloody Mary bar craze,” he said. “We did it at Mezzanine when we opened Mezzanine and it worked out well so we brought it over to Bellytimber. Most people like it and it is fun.”

And Stamper said with summer coming up and VCU being out, it was the perfect time to close down to renovate.

“Summer months are the slowest months down there, summertime you lose 30,000 people in the neighborhood, if we were going do it, the time was right,” he said.

Beauvine will serve lunch, dinner, and offer delivery and a small brunch menu after they get up and running. The restaurant will also offer craft beer and cocktails.

Stamper brought in a consultant from Baskervill to help with the design of the interior.

“The same cozy historic to the Fan kind of look,” Stamper said of the forthcoming space. “Different colors, brand new floors, a new back bar, I’m not replacing the bar top its beautiful…there’s going to be a lot of different design elements, it’s going to feel like a whole new place.”

And once again, Stamper is teaming up with local muralist Ed Trask to complete the artwork on the Plum Street side of the building.

“This will be the fourth Trask mural on there,” he said.

Beauvine is slated to open near the end of August. Bellytimber Tavern will be open for regular business through Tuesday, May 30 and will close the following day on Wednesday, May 31.

Top image credit: Brad Kutner. Body image: Bellytimber Tavern